How Much Leather Should Be Pinched Off the Upper Back of Leather Riding Jacket

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Like a lot of the clothing guys wear today, the leather jacket got its start as a utilitarian object. There was no need for a bomber jacket, a motorcycle jacket or a racing jacket before the inventions of the airplane, the motorcycle or the automobile. But leather jackets didn't make their widespread style debut until after World War II, when the idea of leather for style, instead of purely for function, started seeping into popular culture.

After sky-rocketing to popularity by way of Marlon Brando in the film The Wild One, the motorcycle jacket became such a symbol of youth in revolt that it was banned in schools for an entire year in the mid-1950s. This helped place them on the backs of guys who wanted to telegraph "rebel cool," gaining popularity throughout the 60s, 70s, and 80s.

"[For] everybody from Elvis to The Beatles, to The Stones, every psychedelic band from the Jefferson Airplane to the Grateful Dead, it was like a rite of passage," said Michael Paradise, a former employee of North Beach Leathers who now owns The Stronghold, a heritage clothing boutique in Los Angeles. "You signed a recording contract, you got your first paycheck, you went to North Beach Leather."

They're now an indispensable part of a man's wardrobe — and guys who work in more casual settings can get away with swapping a minimal black, brown or navy leather jacket for a blazer. It's more durable, water repellent, and looks just as good over jeans as it does with a pair of tailored trousers. With so many options on the market, finding the perfect one for you can take a lot of time and research — but it's well worth slowing down to do so.

Unlike other clothing, buying a leather jacket is like buying a piece of furniture. Pick the right version and you'll have it forever. Go with the wrong thing, and you'll end up making an expensive mistake. To help shorten your list of candidates, we compiled our favorites makers across the four major categories, motorcycle, bomber, racing, and shearling jackets. We also spoke with experts — click the button below — about style, fit, quality, and care to better inform your big spend.

HOW TO CARE FOR LEATHER

The Best Leather Jackets You Can Buy

Schott NYC

Schott's an American classic. Founded in 1913 by Irving Schott, the brand's credited with being both the first to put a zipper on a jacket and the first to debut the style we now know as a motorcycle jacket. They sold the first one in 1928 at a Harley Davidson store in NYC.

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Editor's Pick

'50s Oil Tanned Cowhide Leather Moto Jacket

Nearly a century after its inception, the OG motorcycle jacket is still in production. With a belted waist, epaulets, snap collar, map pocket, flap pocket at the waist and, of course, tough oil-tanned cowhide, it's the moto jacket defined. You can be sure that this will last you another century when it's still an icon.

The Real McCoy's

Japanese label The Real McCoy's was founded in the early 2000's by vintage seller Hitoshi Tsujimoto. He'd been inspired by American staples like denim, T-shirts, leather jackets, and the ilk and sought out his own way of paying homage, by making replicas. They've become some of the most sought after garments — arguably even more so than the vintage pieces the designs reference.

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Editor's Pick

'30s Leather Sports Jacket

While authenticity can be had with Schott, you can't much closer than this legendary jacket from Japanese repro-obsessives The Real McCoy's. That's because this dates back to the '30s. But, The Real McCoy's has gone to extreme lengths to reproduce this classic jacket. Of course, this Japanese-made replica won't come cheap.

Vanson

Three cheers for Vanson! The brand, founded in 1974, originally set its sights on selling moto jackets with improved performance and protective elements. Clearly the ideas were a success. They remain a trusty option for steelheads and stylists alike.

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Editor's Pick

Dominator-2 Leather Jacket

Cut from competition weight Steerhide, Vanson's Dominator-2 Jacket is designed to stand up to crashes and falls, but also concerts and raucous crowds. It's a 60s-style English Rockers leather motorcycle jacket, they say, with reinforced side panels and chrome hardware.

Freenote Cloth

Freenoth Cloth, although new, specializes in timeless American titans like leather jackets and jeans. Every single one they sell is hand-cut and -sewn in California.

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Editor's Pick

Locklin Jacket

Very few of these Locklin Jackets exist. Even fewer are in stock at Franklin and Poe. On this jacket you'll find a body made from 2.5 oz Italian Steerhide, sleeves lined with satin, a body adorned with a Southwestern pattern, and buttons from made custom horn.

Simmons Bilt

Simmons Bilt was a brand that launched in Oakland, California just after 1900 but closed by 1930. It's back, though, by way of a dedicated few designers committed to revitalizing it. They follow templates true to the era and emphasize craftsmanship to the same degree.

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Editor's Pick

Heartbreaker Leather Jacket

This collaborative jacket from Standard & Strange and Simmons Bilt references "jackets worn by The Heartbreakers, a fictional gang in the 50's from an unreleased screenplay written by Gen," one of Standard & Strange's sales associates.

Y'2 Leather

Y'2 Leather has been around since 1998. On top of its now 23 years in the industry, its founders boast more than 45 more prior to its inception. They know everything and everyone. As such, they can oversee (and ask for) the employment of unique leathers, processes, and finishes, making for more interesting final products.

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Editor's Pick

Kakishibu Persimmon Tanned Horsehide Type Jacket

This nylon lined Type Jacket was dyed with... persimmons. It's a part of a traditional technique called Kakishibu — hence the name. To note: this dye is ultra photosensitive, meaning it'll darken and age faster than most jackets, even with just usual exposure to the sun.

Himel Bros.

An homage to the founder's father and his two brothers, David Himel's Himel Bros. is a Toronto-based leather brand that uses imported, proprietary materials — mostly from Japan.

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Editor's Pick

The Heron A-1 Jacket

Derived from military jackets of the same name, Himel Bros.' A-1 design spotlights "a deeply primitive early-1930s style, which demonstrates both the simplistic beauty of naïve tailoring." It's cut from Japanese leather and is made-to-measure.

Dunhill

Dunhill's roots are in everything automotive. The luxury brand made pipes for smoking while driving, lighters, and, of course, jackets. These came later, long after the business was established in 1893, but by the 1970s the brand boasted a collection comprising over 2,000 products.

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Editor's Pick

Shearling Jacket

This Shearling Jacket isn't cheap. You know what, none of these options are. But, that's because it'sleather. And, in the case of this here coat, lamb's leather and shearling.

Fine Creek Leathers

Think of Fine Creek founder Yoshikatsu Yamazaki as the mad scientist of leather. He sources the finest materials and finishes them with his own original tans.

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Lynchburg Leather Jacket

Each one of Fine Creek Leathers' Lynchburg jackets are stitched by hand in a Tokyo studio. They reference a 1940's Lee denim jacket, which ran short, kind of quasi-cropped. Finished with "tea core" tan, the jacket will reveal rich brown tones beneath the black as it breaks in.

Eastman Leather Clothing

Eastman Leather Clothing specializes in reproductions of WW2-era garments. "The nostalgia behind these styles is what makes them attractive. They were born out of a time of necessity, and designed for a specific purpose - to function and protect under adverse and challenging conditions. Since then they have become timeless design classics, appealing to the rugged utilitarian image," the brand's about page states. Couldn't have said it better myself.

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Editor's Pick

Type A-2 Leather Jacket

Remember the Type A-1 Jacket from above? Well, this is the Type A-2. It stepped in for the A-1 in 1931 but ceased being standard issue by 1944. Since then it's served as reference for other styles and, clearly, a source of inspiration for reproductions.

The Cast

The Cast, located on Orchard St in Manhattan's Lower East Side, has been around since 2004. They're punk, family-owned, and super, effing premium. Come here for a bespoke leather jacket that not only looks the part but was made by people who built the scene.

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Custom Bowery Jacket

This is The Cast's most popular style, ripe for customization of all kinds. Change the coin pocket color, the belt hue, the hardware or even the liner, all on an online portal. It's fun to experiment with even if you can't afford one...yet.

Honorable Mention

The Band Collar Moto Jacket

Taylor Stitch doesn't dedicate itself to leather, but when the brand uses the material they do so well. The Band Collar Moto Jacket remains in the cycling stratosphere but without being kitschy or off-duty-cop-like.

Honorable Mention

Suede Bomber

Sneaky, huh? I slipped some suede onto this list. It istechnically leather after all. California-based brand Buck Mason makes a few classic leather jackets — one Moto and one bomber — but the suede is the only they have in stock...for now. Check back regularly for those beauties.

Honorable Mention

Italian Leather Moto Jacket

Todd Snyder isn't known for edgy leather jackets — more like comfortable sweats, seersucker shirts, suede coats, and chinos. But when the venerable American designer entrusts himself with hide, the results are rich with texture and a dream to put on. This Italian Leather Moto certainly lives up to my billing.

Honorable Mention

Carrier Jacket

Belstaff's credited with bringing waterproofing to the motorcycle sector, making riding in the rain a possibility. (Maybe not a pleasure, though.) They're still around, even after nearly 100 years, and their retro-tinged jackets are well worth the $1,000+ price tag.

Honorable Mention

Finn Leather Rider Jacket

Wilsons claims to be a brand born in 1899, but really they only launched in the 1950's. They merged with another label, Bermans, and their ascent began. Although inarguably not as popular as it used to be, Wilsons's garments are still of high-quality. They're even kind of a bargain compared to the other picks before it.

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How Much Leather Should Be Pinched Off the Upper Back of Leather Riding Jacket

Source: https://www.gearpatrol.com/style/g37405485/leather-jacket/

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